2015 Articles About Fish Betta Tutorial the treatment, ways and aquarium

Betta fish Beautiful Color Purple
Betta fish Color Violet
On drive (without my former learning) my little girl purchased a male betta a noteworthy pet store. He lived in a little bowl for some time until I assumed control over the class and now lives in a ten gallon tank with several fake plants that like to hang out. I've never had fish and we know nothing about them. I did some exploration online to verify it was in any event getting the right care. We have had for around 5 months. Rapidly lost enthusiasm for him and now is a sort of mine.

I would locate a decent home for him with somebody who acknowledges and can take better care I will keep your tank clean and begins to eat twice every day. I believe it's sound, however he appears to have developed any. Your tank its not warmed and keep the temperature in the house, so I'm certain your water temperature is not perfect for him. I would enormously value any cures it may need to discover homes for fish. I am hesitant to give free in light of the fact that I would prefer not to run with somebody who does not like him and he used to battle or toss a pet, however in the event that you know of somebody who truly these fish care and trust they can have it all. I simply need to locate a decent home for him.

TO :. A debt of gratitude is in order for writing in I acclaim you for looking for another home for your Betta when it is no more ready to tend to him. Over and over again, individuals decide to overlook their fish until they succumb or choose to euthanize an alive and well fish without first attempting to locate another home. There are a lot of choices accessible to you. To begin with, you can continually convey the fish to a nearby creature cover. Most any creature won't dismiss and you will be astonished to discover a mixture of little pets including fish, hamsters, mice, winged creatures and reptiles. You can likewise call your neighborhood fish store and check whether they will take back. Most likely you won't need to pay for it, yet they can take him back in the event that he is fit as a fiddle. Call to begin with, in light of the fact that albeit some may have approaches in spots uncovering that will take fish. Then again, call or email your neighborhood fish club.

You did not say where he lives, but there are clubs of fish in almost all large cities full of enthusiastic fans who would love to help. Most clubs readily accept donations and the fish will add to your monthly auction. If they can not do that which would almost certainly put you in touch with a member of the club that could take your fish from you. Start by going online and search on Google your city and "freshwater fish club" or "society of tropical fish" or some version of these terms. Another option is to sell their fish in a fish auction online and AquaBid.com. This site is very popular among those responsible for serious fish but you will need to register and learn how to properly send a fish if yours is purchased. Another option is to place an online ad on a site like Craigslist.org, a site of club fish line as Aquamaniacs.net or bulletin board in your local town. I was able to find a home for many of my fish before moving across the country through publication in the online Web forum in my neighborhood. My neighbor, who had a large tank already contacted me through the forum. A final option that you may find appealing is donating your fish to your primary or local secondary school. Very often, teachers will have them and use them as a pet in the classroom and often seek help from their students in the care of them.I hope you find one of these useful ideas and find a new home for small Betta soon. Thank you very much for writing in.Posted by Christie at 16:13ThisBlogThis Send Share to TwitterShare to FacebookShare to PinterestTuesday, October 23, 2007Betta Recovering the ammonia burns
Beautiful fish, originally uploaded by steve xavier.DO wrote,

I received a 1 gal. Wall bowl w / bamboo plant, some rocks and red male Betta in March as a birthday present from my husband. Up to 1.5 weeks ago was active, had a routine, she looked happy and healthy. We left the city during the weekend, left a submersible disc food. It was only his first time. After our return I immediately changed the water, as it was very cloudy. Their gills protruding and he seemed out of breath? After clean water that seemed to brighten, but not completely back to being the same. 4 days ago he stopped eating. I thought maybe it was cold so I do a light over it a couple of hours a night. He swims and hangs it where it's warm. Yesterday morning made his "dancing" order breakfast, I took as a good sign, but still will not eat. Not seem to have ick, or any physical damage (in addition to the gills). I am very worried about him. My children keep asking for it. How do I change the water 1-2 times a week, boil / cold rocks in the middle and rinse bamboo. His head does look a little gray, but not blurred the last two days or so. Any advice would be great, thanks.

A: This is a classic case of ammonia poisoning all the signs. Fish waste and decaying food are the main sources of toxic ammonia. In such a small bowl of ammonia can build to toxic levels in a very short time (a few days under normal conditions) and that problem may be exacerbated by the addition of food more or less a water change.Inflamed gills, panting are typical symptoms of ammonia burns. Unfortunately, these burns are slow to heal and often do not return completely to normal function. When Bettas struggle to get oxygen often experience secondary problems such as loss of appetite, color or secondary infections vanished. This is due to the added stress on the immune system.Some steps you can take to increase the likelihood that your Betta recovery are keeping up with frequent water changes, ammonia test regularly using a simple test kit at your local store ammonia fish and fish supply an aquarium of appropriate size (3 - at least 5 gallons). Aquarium salt can also be beneficial tohelp relieve stress and increase the role of the gills of fish that have suffered ammonia burns. The dose is 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of water and remember that the salt is not evaporated do not continue to add salt to the cup or reach dangerous concentrations.The single best thing you can do to improve water quality and provide a stable home for the fish is the cycle of an aquarium. The "nitrogen cycle" is a natural process that occurs in an aquarium (and all bodies of water) where beneficial bacteria grow and grow and dangerous ammonia consumed as they are being produced. Tank Cycling is something few fish keepers know about when buying your first fish (unfortunately most fish stores do not educate their customers) but eventually learn about the process once their fish start to get sick. I set up a website for new guardians of Betta describing the process so you can easily cycle his first aquarium. Cycling a fish tank help combat future problems of ammonia, you will create a healthier environment for the fish safer environment and save you time and money by reducing the frequency of water changes. For information on the nitrogen cycle tourThis is a very common problem with new guardians of Betta and I know your question will help many others experiencing the same problem. Good luck and I hope that your fish will experience a full recovery as soon as possible.Posted by Christie at 16:55ThisBlogThis Send Share to TwitterShare to FacebookShare to PinterestSunday, October 21, 2007Betta Showing stress after the upgrade Aquarium
abyss, originally uploaded by sanoi.MD wrote,

First, I want to say how impressed I am with your website! Thank you very much for providing such a rich resource to betta lovers! I'm worried about my betta fish, Nino. I've had it for three months and he has been a great partner in my studio, where I spend most of my time. He was in a 5-gallon aquarium, unfiltered and unheated, and very prosperous. As winter approaches, I wanted to provide him with a heater and a filter to circulate the water. Given how active it was - swimming back and forth through your tank for most of the day - I decided to change to a 10-gallon tank. I was as careful as possible in the transition - I "planted" his old gravel tank to their new surroundings + new water mixed with water from the old tank and made sure it was the same temperature.

Since childhood he moved to his new aquarium, it has been increasingly active, and this morning, it still remains on the surface of the water most of the time. Still eats. You should specify that the temperature in your aquarium has been fairly stable at 74-76 F since I got it. I put the heater and filter in place, but I have not started yet (I thought first that I must give the child a chance to get used to their new tank for a few days). The filter (mini duet) contains a very small carbon cartridge (which could contaminate the water if it is not in use?). I have been using spring water from the moment I arrived Nino and I have been doing weekly water change. I tested the water of yesterday and today (with test kit Master API) and reading are good: between 0 and 0.25 ammonia, nitrite: 0; nitrate: 5.0. The pH is higher - 8.0 - but I have been using the same spring water, and realized high readings in the past also.

Nino looked perfectly healthy and happy before the transition and I feel terrible still see it, with little reaction to stimuli and realize their status progressively worsened since yesterday. I wonder if I should try to put it back into its smaller tank or if I do a water change? ... I'm very confused and worried!

I would really appreciate your suggestions!

TO:The move to a new aquarium can be stressful at first though to be better in the long term. It is not at all unusual for Bettas show signs of stress, including sluggishness, loss of appetite or opaque color for example. The fish are incredibly in tune with their environment and can detect even minor changes in water chemistry, especially pH.You want to be sure that the new tank has no soap or detergent residue, new water that has the same parameters as the old (that you made) that were added water additives necessary. (Dechlorinator if necessary). If these precautions are taken, then it is likely that fish just needs some time to adjust.Adding plants (real or silk) and caches help the fish to feel safer while you get used to their new territory. Too many aquarists recommend keeping the lights off or around the aquarium with a towel for a day or two to help your Betta feel safe and protected.I agree that keeping the filter off while your Betta is showing signs of stress is a good idea. Just be careful not to overfeed him during this time and if it detects any ammonia or nitrite will have to activate the filter to keep these toxins at bay. As for your question about the coal, I do not think is causing additional stress. Charcoal is generally safe for Bettas but if you're worried you could always remove the cartridge until you are ready to run the filter.Ten gallon aquarium makes a great home for a Betta. Give it a few days at least to allow the fish to adjust. In most cases they will come back to normal within a week.Posted by Christie at 23:51ThisBlogThis Send Share to TwitterShare to FacebookShare to PinterestTuesday, October 2, 2007Bettas common diseases bring home from the store fish - Velvet Disease
femmina betta, originally uploaded by altiebassi.Q: CSM wrote,

Hi, I was wondering if I could trouble you with a quick question. Three days ago I bought a betta. At the time, he seemed to be in good health, and when I brought it home, he swam in his new tank and ate all their food. On the third day, he stopped eating and hanging out at the top of your tank. Their front wings seem "hold" - they look like two small sticks. He is unreceptive to me - I tapped gently beside his plate and he did not move. Evey now and then taking a deep breath. Other than that, it does not move. He is in a tank of 1.5 liters, the water was treated and allowed to stand 48 hours before arrival. All rocks and false ground are new and cleaned before putting them in the tank.

Not dropsy - yet anyway - without scales are sticking out. I'm afraid I may have velvet - his stomach seems goldish. Unfortunately, because it is a new fish, I do not know if this is indeed velvet, or stomach goldish was there to begin with.

Perhaps the parasites?


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A: To answer your question, adjusting to a new aquarium can be very stressful to fish. Very often the new water can be very different from water that remained in previously and adjustment can really take its toll on the immune system of Betta. It is not unusual that the fish get sick during the first few weeks in their new home. To add to the problem, Bettas are often kept in conditions less than ideal, while the fish store and may leave with any number of diseases which Velvet is one of the most common. Here's more information about Velvet Nippyfish.net.Velvet or Piscinoodinium or pilularis Oodinium is parasitic infestation is very common between salt and fresh water fish. This parasite is opportunistic and is present in most commercial aquariums. When a fish is stressed due to fluctuations in temperature, poor water quality or other stress factors become susceptible to parasites. Velvet or Piscinoodinium or pilularis Oodinium is parasitic infestation is very common between salt and fresh water fish. This parasite is opportunistic and is present in most commercial aquariums. When a fish is stressed due to fluctuations in temperature, poor water quality or other stress factors become susceptible to parasites.Velvet is classified as a dinoflagellate. It is both a protozoan parasites like Ich but contains chlorophyll which is also considered a type of algae. Survive to find a great quantity and stressed mainly binding to the gill tissue or fin where it kills cells and nutrients directly consume fish. If left untreated frequently it leads to death. Physically, Velvet looks like a gold oxide or yellow powder, finely sprinkled over the fish. In fact, it can be so difficult to see that often a flashlight to reveal is needed. This appearance of glowing dust has led many other names besides including Rust velvet and gold dust disease.Besides seeing the parasites directly in the fish you may notice other symptoms as the developer rubbing against the rocks, gravel or other decoration. This is common with external parasites and is an attempt by the fish to dislodge the pests from your body. As the disease progresses, symptoms may worsen and include lethargy, loss of appetite, shortness of breath and clamped fins.For a short time, protozoa arising from your host and enter their free-swimming stage where you divide and multiply many times. This is when they are most vulnerable to drugs, but can not be obviously present in the tank. It is very important when medicating finish the full course of treatment regardless of weather or not still see the parasites. Closely follow the package directions for the drug. Once the parasites multiply must find a new host (or the same old) within 24 hours to survive. Because of this life cycle it may seem that the fish has improved, but actually once the complete reproduction Piscinoodinium the worst is yet to come. Now many more protozoa are present in the water and waiting to attack the fish.If diagnosed early, Velvet is fairly easy to treat. First, you must remove your betta and placed in a hospital tank away from any other fish. Oodinium is highly contagious and maintenance of infected fish in a community tank you may put others at risk. Note, Velvet medications can be toxic to other species such as some fish, snails, invertebrates and aquarium plants too. Moreover, any filter means must be removed in order not to remove the drug from the water. Then gradually increase the water temperature 80F - 82f [26.6˚C - 27.7˚C]. Because you do not want to further stress the fish, make sure only to increase the temperature of no more than 2 ° F or 1c a period of 24 hours. A faster fluctuation of temperature could cause further damage. Use of drug as a commercial Velvet Mardel CopperSafe® Velvet Jungle Guard® or recommended. Reducing the amount of light entering the tanks holding the lamp covering hood and the tank can help fight parasites too.To prevent the parasites that infest your tank Piscinoodinium are some simple precautions can all aquarists the tank. First, always quarantine new fish for 3-4 weeks before adding them to a community tank. Be sure to always test the water parameters regularly and keep the water clean the tank by performing frequent water changes and regular. Avoid stress factors such as temperature and pH fluctuations and provide a nutritionally balanced diet, offering a variety of live and frozen foods.Posted by Christie at 13:04ThisBlogThis Send Share to TwitterShare to FacebookShare to PinterestSaturday, September 29, 2007Betta Fish and current filter
IMG_4794, originally uploaded by Bassline Audiovisual.Q: M wrote:

WOW I have to say that your website is quite the place to find the answers you seek is what very much appreciated in helping people find the right answers to keep your wonderful fish alive and well! I wonder now if you could help me ... I bought a Betta fish a week ago and had it in a bowl at first and then decided what kind of house do you not want to live my life in a fishbowl fool so then I decided to buy a fish tank filter 2.5 liters and gravel and I have a fake plant there for him I leave the lights on from about 19:30 to 23:00 plus all the sunlight it receives during the day is that good to keep the light on that long I just do not like the idea of ​​being in the dark? I also asked the filter got to him is one of some cheap filters that has a high, medium and low speed I keep it at low speed, but it seems as if your not filter anything hardly any stream leaving the top filter and clear waters, but then when I got in average power that filters great I do not want him to get sucked into the filter and although not want him to be highlighted to have to swim as hard Im confused and depressed because I want have a great life for as long as possible. Any information would be appreciated so helpful and please come back to me as soon as possible to scare me Loui not want to die! OH and if you could not say that this is my first betta :) LOL. Another thing I thought I'd throw there since Im so many questions is because hes got transparent material on top of the water and hes got accumulate on the sides of your tank, what can I do to get rid of that? Thank you so much again why their bettas get to live a long life so its a great source of help and answers and the pet store people are murderers who do not care because it's not their porblem such so thanks!

A: You asked a lot of great questions so I'll try to answer them in order. As for lighting, Bettas, like most animals, the use of queues nature to help know when to be awake and when to sleep. Bettas have a natural sleep cycle that corresponds to the sun. When is light, they are awake and when the lights go out often can take sleeping on their floors or at the bottom of the tank. I like to give about 12 hours with the light and he was 12, but a little more or a little less, does not seem to cause any noticeable stress. One thing for sure is that you do not have to worry about turning off the light of your Betta. The opportunity to take a little "Z" s will be appreciated.The determination of whether or not the filter is sufficiently strong or very strong is something that many Betta breeders try. The mud you see on the surface and the water glass aquarium called detritus or "mulm" and may indicate that the filter is necessary to raise a little. Detritus include organic compounds in the water and is not harmful, but typically can be an eyesore. Normally, to get rid of it, aquarists create a little more water movement. Since your filter has an adjustable flow control means and recommend turning to look at things for a couple of days. If your Betta is really struggling to reach the surface is shrunk or completely, then you may have no choice but to go down. Another thing you can do is split the difference between low and medium speed setting control filter medium and adding a little more of the Silk aquarium plants. Additional in water plants tend to help disperse the water flow by making it easier for your fish to cope with the current.If the filter removes up detritus can not remove it from the water surface by folding a paper towel in half and scrape the surface folded edge. Detritus who sits on the bottom of the tank can be sucked with a turkey baster inexpensive, often a tool that comes in handy with Bettas.Congratulations on your first Betta. I am delighted to hear that you are doing your homework and provide fish with great care.Posted by Christie at 19:14ThisBlogThis Send Share to TwitterShare to FacebookShare to PinterestSunday, September 16, 2007How to handle temperature fluctuations Bettas
mitai May2, originally uploaded by misa212.Q: LAB wrote,

I've been looking through your blog - much useful information. I am currently in cycling a tank (no fish), and I'm trying to regulate temperature. During the day, I have a light in living plants, and the water is about 80 to 82 degrees F, and the night gets colder, so I have a tight heater to 80 degrees F. I wonder how much of a fluctuation of the temperature of the Bettas can drive safely? While worries me most is during the day, when the light is on.

I have a 3-gallon aquarium (the Eclipse system).

Thanks for your great blog and website!

A: It is true that the sudden changes in water temperature may lead to stress in aquarium fish and thermal shock, even if extreme enough, but the exact number of degrees that cause damage can be hard to pinpoint.Fluctuations of the water temperature generally become a problem when1. drastic (altered by varying degrees)2. How long (fish which are kept at temperatures too hot or too cold on a regular basis)3. fluctuate in a short period of timeThese temperature changes also affect the different fish. A drastic change in temperature can cause immediate physical or behavioral change in Betta. You can swim erratically, floating on one side or difficulties appear. Less severe fluctuations of only a few degrees over time can affect fish in a less obvious way. For example, the immune system is weakened, leaving the Betta prone to diseases such as bacterial infections or parasites. In these cases it may not be obvious to the breeder fish that the cause was stress-induced temperature changes.The overall health of the fish also comes into play. Weak or diseased fish are more likely to feel the effects of temperature fluctuations. This is one reason why no fish breeders are not in perfect health as shipping can often expose them to fluctuations of 10 degrees Fahrenheit or more will be sent.That said, I personally try to keep my temperature fluctuations of less than 3.2 degrees Fahrenheit over a period of 24 hours (or 1.2 degrees Celsius.) In the summer it may be a bit more difficult, so my best to keep my fish healthy by feeding them a balanced and nutritious diet and maintain its very clean water.One thing you can do is reduce the amount of time to keep the light on for your tank, especially in the warmer months. While you are getting the ambient light will be fine. Tank light is actually to your benefit that Betta, unless you are using it for growing live plants that require a lot of light.Aim at a temperature of 78-80F. A few degrees above or below that is fine, but of course better if you can keep it stable.Posted by Christie at 13:03ThisBlogThis Send Share to TwitterShare to FacebookShare to PinterestMonday, September 3, 2007Current heavy tank Betta
AquaOne 215L, originally uploaded by KittyKat3756.H wrote,

I just bought a new female betta, Finona, which is quite young and small. I have in the Eclipse 3 gallons, but I realized the current is very strong for her. Do you have any recommendation to decrease the current? I'm thinking it might be better for it once it gets bigger but any advice would be appreciated.

A: Often, when we have a filter that prevents output adjustablity we fashion ourselves a buffer homemade strong current to keep away from our bettas. In larger aquariums that are usually just trying to slow things down in the exit area, where the water flows into the tank. In a small aquarium, as the Eclipse 3, the current can be very strong throughout the tank so it's a little harder for the fish and for us as we try to figure out a way to cut the current.In this case you might want to try to cut the toe of a pair of pantyhose and elastic band around the small basket of water intake, where the waste is sucked into the aquarium. This is a method often used when the suction intake is too big for our fish but tends to create enough friction to stop the whole. You can also try setting up the dam on the surface of the water with a plastic tank divider. This method works quite well in larger aquariums and I have used many times when breeding gouramis so they can have perfectly still water on the surface to build their nests of bubbles.To create this surface barrier I buy a tank divider kit plastic mesh, available in almost any fish store, PetCo or PetSmart, and cut a large swath of 1-2 inches from the screen. Then I tie to the supports as you would if you were configuring the splitter, and attach the brackets to the sides of the aquarium, just around the outflow. Ensure that the mesh is at the top of the water and projecting from the surface slightly. (A quarter inch is fine.)This method will not cut the flow throughout the aquarium, but will create a quiet place where you could get rid girl when she wants.
A barrage of homemade mesh made of a mesh divider tank.
A third method, and my favorite, is to cut the current planting the demons of his aquarium. Lots of crypticorians and Java ferns, not to mention small caves or hideouts ceramics are a great way to disperse some of that current. Is a bit more expensive then the other methods, but it is beautiful and also love fishes

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